This is not one of my projects. This is a big and scary and hard project of monumental dimensions, in part carried out with the most difficult materials available. This is my wedding dress, and the person who pulled it off is my mother.
My grandmother was a haute couture seamstress, apprentice from the age of 15 and some years later employed by the French atelier at NK in Stockholm. Her job interview consisted of hemming a skirt – 6 meters of silk crepe, roll hemmed by hand. Those of you who’ve tried anything like it know this is no mean feat. She got the job and went on to sew the most glamorous things through the 30s. Some of the mastery evidently was inherited by her daughter, and now I will blog the dress she made.
I quite soon after starting to look around at wedding dresses realized I probably did not want a full lenght gown and learned that the english term for that is “tea lenght”. Very mid-20th-century. I think every single sketch I made had a boat neckline and full skirt (me not, as previously stated, being of a willowy silhouette). The rest of the design was harder, and shifted between a full lace gown, acres of tulle and applique flowers, inspired from hours and hours spent looking at the most wonderful things on the web.

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The above inspirational photos are of course not mine, they are borrowed from the internet. The lace and tulle dream to the left is Justin Alexander’s model 8465 and the elegance to the right is Stephanie Allin’s design Nina Short of the Bordeaux collection.
Anyway. In March my mother took me, my sister and sister in law to Barcelona to shop for dress fabric (not that there aren’t fabric stores in Stockholm. They are just not as good, and it’s just not as fun shopping there as it is going to Spain). Again, research on my beloved Internet told me where to go: the quartiers east of Placa Catalunya and more exactly to Ribes y Casals, an incredible fabric store that have not one but two really large stores within minutes of each other. Our day there ended with over 30 metres of fabric being bought, 19 of them white silk and lace for various wedding gown designs – I had hoped that having to decide on the fabric would make me chose the design but no, with everything so lovely and being about a third of the price or less compared to Sweden we just bought the lot.

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Fabric store heaven
A few weeks later the design was finally decided and the Seamstress mother and the Undecided Bride daughter could go to work. From lovely Viola Lahger I ordered a Revanche de la femme corset to wear under the dress, as my home made dress doesn’t have the built in corsetry modern bought bridal gowns have. Also, proper lace up corsets are cool. And, surprisingly, not at all uncomfortable – I’ve worn mine full days and partied pretty hard in it. You do want someone to help you tie your shoelaces, though.

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Prototyping and under way
First we made a muslin though combining already proven patterns and endless fittings and then my mother took her large sewing scissors to the fabric for the under-dress, a creamy white really heavy silk satin. This is a quite nice material to sew in,it doesn’t slide and is compact and stiff. This can not be said of the material that went on top of it; the sheerest, flimsiest, most water-like silk chiffon we’ve ever touched. It’s the gold creamy stuff in the down right corner of the photo above. I’m almost a bit ashamed I made my mum handle it, but she assures me that she thought it was fun, at least kind of. Sometimes.
While she worked on getting straight side seams on bias in the cob web flimsy, I crafted little roses of it to put on the skirt. I think I made 50 or so of them, and also got some ready made lace flowers to complement them. A button maker (there are professionals who still do this, yes) covered the 27 buttons with the satin and the chiffon to get the color right, and mum and I took turns fastening the flowers to the skirt. I made the draped silk crepe chiffon belt by arranging it on a 10 cm wide strip of satin, sticking pins in it and then fastening it where the pins had been.
I have no clue, nor do I really want one, of how many work hours there are in this dress, but it was a lot of fun as well. True to form, the last stitch went into the dress not a full hour before the ceremony began…

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Details from the dress: the buttons, the belt, the chiffon and lace flowers.
But we made it! and here’s the result:

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and of course, there are more pics of it among our wedding photos.
Thanks mum.